Licensed Professional Engineers
are licensed by the state, must meet education and experience requirements and pass rigorous exams administered by the state
in a specific engineering discipline, such as civil, mechanical, or structural. Passing this exam permits the licensed Professional
Engineer to offer services directly to the public. Licensed Professional Engineers are bound by a strict code of ethics, and
will often put P.E. after their name, just as a medical doctor uses M.D.
Certified
Building Officials are certified by the Council of American Building Officials, presently the International Code
Council which is the national agency for the proponancy and publication of the International Building Codes, and must meet
education and experience requirements and pass a rigorous exam administered by A.S.I. or the N.C.P.C.C.I. (National Certification
Program for Construction Code Inspectors) in all aspects of building construction and the laws and management pertaining to
building construction. Passing this exam permits the Certified Building Official to offer services directly to the public.
Certified Building Officials are bound by a strict code of ethics, and will often put C.B.O. after their names just as a medical
doctor uses M.D.
Do I need a Professional Engineer or a Certified Home Inspector to inspect my home?
You need a home
inspector who is a Certified Building Official (C.B.O.) or a Certified Combination 1
& 2 Family Dwelling Inspector. When you hire a certified inspector, you are hiring an experienced professional who has
training and experience in the building industry. It is the job of the home inspector to not only evaluate the condition of
the house's major systems and structural integrity, but also evaluate how these systems are working together and identify
areas that need to be watched, repaired, or replaced.
A Certified Home Inspector
gives you the "Big Picture" analysis of the house you are purchasing. If the home inspector identifies the need
for a more costly detailed analysis of any of the home's systems or structures, the inspector will recommend the appropriate
professional, which may be an experienced Professional Engineer or an experienced Contractor or Authorized Service Representative
with expertise in analyzing that particular system or structure.
Hiring a Professional
Engineer to conduct a home inspection can be a less than satisfactory experience. The term "Professional Engineer"
does not mean that the individual has training or experience in conducting home inspections. In most cases, a home inspection
does not involve a detailed engineering analysis. Standard residential construction load calculations are easily understood
and computed by most material suppliers, and can be explained by any reputable home inspector. Therefore, hiring a Professional
Engineer to conduct a home inspection undoubtably will cost more, and it may not give you the results you desire and deserve.
________________________________________________________________
Comparison Comments ***Information for this comparison was written by a Professional Engineer comparing a
Home Inspector to a P.E.***
|
A non-engineer’s description:
The floor joists are 2 X 6s spaced between 12 and 17 inches on center. |
A Professional Engineer would evaluate these
floor joists and conclude: These floor joists do not provide sufficient floor loading capacity.
This house is structurally unsound. Repair is estimated at $4,000. |
Here's what Mike would tell you: Floor joists for residential
purposes are loaded at 40 PSF. Overloading of the floor joists will cause more deflection and spring in the floor than
desired by industry standards, but in most cases will not result in structural failure. Additional bracing and/or supports
can be added at a nominal cost by a reputable contractor.
FIRE
DAMAGED RAFTERS
A non-engineer's description: The roof rafters, ridge beam, and sheathing are charred.
As viewed from the outside, the roofline is sagging.
A Professional Engineer would evaluate the sagging roof line and the fire damage and conclude:
This roof line is sagging because the structure has been weakened due to fire damage. This house is structurally unsound.
Rebuilding the roof will cost an estimated $13,000.
Here's what Mike would tell you: There is evidence of a past house fire
which should have been disclosed. The industry standard for acceptable char on structural members without significantly diminishing
the structural integrity of the member is 1/4 inch. The structure may be repaired without removal of the charred members but
will retain the identity of a fire damaged house, or the house may be repaired at a much greater cost by removing all charred
and smoke damaged material, thus eliminating the identity of a fire damaged house.
|
A non-engineer’s description:
There is a steel column under the main beam and supported on a concrete block.
A Professional Engineer
would evaluate the this column, footing, and beam, and conclude: The concrete block under the steel
column is an inappropriate footing, and the span between columns is too wide. This house is structurally unsound.
Additional support is required at an estimated $3,000.
Here's what Mike would tell you: The
steel column is set on a concrete block. Removal of the concrete block and the installation of additonal support columns can
be accomplished at a nominal cost.
|
|
| A non-engineer’s
description: This house has 60 amp, 220 volt service. |
A Professional Engineeer
would evaluate the electrical loads and this service, and conclude: The 60 amp, 220 volt
service is insufficient for the existing electrical needs in this house. This house requires 200 amp, 220 volt service
at an estimated $1,800. |
Here's what Mike would tell you: By National Electrical Code
standards this house can have a 60 amp main disconnect with a maximum of 6 disconnects and a 10 KVA load. As long as the circuit
breakers are sized properly with the circuit conductors, this system is adequate and safe. Any plans to add additional electrical
circuits would result in the need to upgrade the electrical service equipment to a minimum of a 100 amp main distribution
panel.